Best Time to Visit Havasupai

I don’t think there’s a perfect time to visit, and I’d go whenever possible based on how competitive permits are (elaborate on the permit process below). But for reference, summers are hot in Arizona, so it’s not ideal for hiking, but I can only imagine how refreshing swimming would be. Just know that trails into Supai will close if the temperature exceeds 115°F, and flash floods are more likely in the summer. Alternatively, going in the spring or fall means better hiking weather, but the water might be cold for swimming. We went in early May, and Brett thought it was the perfect mix of being cool outside yet warm enough to swim while I still found it too chilly to get in the water, so it’s a personal preference.

Permit Process

Other good to know things about the permits:

• There is only one trip leader whose name goes on the permit, and the reservation is only good if that person is at check-in with a valid photo ID.
• If the trip leader cannot go, you can transfer the reservation to a PATL (Potential Alternate Trip Leader). Once you make a reservation, you can’t change the PATL list for that reservation, so it’s a good idea to name a PATL just in case.
• Regardless of who the trip leader or PATL is, all visitors must make an account before arrival to confirm agreement with Havasupai Rules and Laws.
• Reservations are non-refundable and non-changeable; however, you can list your permit on the transfer list for sale. Once someone else buys your permit, you’ll receive a refund minus a 10% transfer fee.
• Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get permits on the first go. Check the cancellation/transfer list daily at 8 am Arizona time for permits you can snag.
• It’s mandatory to make pack mule reservations ahead of time if you choose to use the mules. It costs $400 round trip for up to 4 bags, 32 pounds per bag, with 36x19x19 size restrictions. Be mindful that it can take a while to get your bags.

Preparation for Havasupai

This hike may be easy or hard, depending on your experience level. I’ve done plenty of hiking, but this was my first backpacking trip, so I wanted to be prepared between the hike’s length and my backpack’s load. Here’s how we prepared in advance for the trip:

• We hiked every week for a couple of months leading up to the big trek, increasing the length of our hike and the weight of our pack each time.
• Make a realistic meal plan to pack enough food but minimize the possibility of overpacking and adding unnecessary weight to your backpack.
• Buy appropriate gear — it makes a world of difference. I created a comprehensive packing list, including gear, clothing, food, toiletries, and miscellaneous items.

Havasupai Itinerary

The Day Before

Check in and pick up your permit and wristbands at Grand Canyon Caverns & Inn no later than noon on the first day of your reservation. It’s advisable to check in the day before to get an early start on the hike the following morning. Ensure the trip leader (discussed above under the permit process) is present because they are responsible for the check-in procedure. Once you check in, staying there overnight and getting a good night’s sleep before the hike is recommended. Fill your car with gas for the round trip because the nearest gas station from the trailhead is in Peach Springs (70 miles away). Also, don’t forget to fill up your water bladder because there is no water at the trailhead. Get prepared and settled so you’re not rushing the morning of — double-check gear and take one last shower; we even grabbed dinner at Westside Lilo’s Cafe.

Day 1

Rise early and drive to the trailhead — be careful of the cattle and elk. From the trailhead, it’s 8 miles to Supai village. Supai village has a cafe where we stopped for frybread before making the final 2-mile descent to the campgrounds. With a roughly 2400-foot elevation change, it typically takes 4 to 6 hours, depending on various factors such as level of fitness, the weight of the pack, and weather conditions. The first section is a descent through switchbacks (the most challenging part is hiking the switchbacks back up), but once you’re past the switchbacks, the trail is relatively flat and easy to follow. Upon arrival, set up camp and explore the campground and nearby creek.

Day 2

Day 2 is good for the lower waterfalls — Havasu, Mooney (about 1 mile from campground), and Beaver (roughly 6 miles round trip). If you’re feeling adventurous, some people hike to the Confluence, a 16-mile round-trip trek. Don’t forget to bring a daypack and wear sturdy footwear (some areas are slippery and steep). There may be stream crossings, so pack water shoes if you wear hiking boots.

Hiking Mooney Falls involves chains and ladders, which can seem daunting. You can pack gloves to help better grip the chains. When we were there, there was a pile of gloves left that you could use if you forgot your own. If you’re afraid of heights, I suggest skipping this or going when it’s quieter so you can take your time. Since there’s only one way to Mooney Falls, try not to hold up traffic and annoy everyone behind you.

Day 3

Explore the upper waterfalls — Fifty Foot and Little Navajo. These can be tricky to find, and we got lost a couple of times. I highly recommend downloading the AllTrails app ahead of time to help navigate. Grab some frybread from the hut at the top of Havasu Falls on your way back to the campground if you didn’t get a chance to try it back in Supai village. Call it an early evening if you plan to hike early the following morning.

Day 4

If you don’t start early, there’s little shade, so we woke up at 3 am, packed our gear in the dark using our headlamps, and began our hike. Remember that hiking out with the uphill switchbacks takes a bit longer. Another option to reduce your overall hiking mileage is to helicopter out of the canyon. It’s $85 for a one-way flight per person. Please note that they don’t run every day, and it’s on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Havasupai Camping Guide

Photography Tips

Hiking Havasupai is a photographer’s dream. My talented husband took every photo in this guide, and he shared some tips on capturing the best waterfall pictures.

• Bring a professional camera — Brett used this exact one. If that isn’t an option, an iPhone will still work.
• Learn how to take long exposure shots; this gives the silky effect of the water flowing in all my images. Brett said 0.5-1 second worked best for him, but try experimenting for different results.
• Use a tripod, which will help prevent motion blur for long-exposure shots.
• Consider bringing a wide-angle lens. Brett brought his wide-angle lens to shoot the waterfalls because they’re taller and more challenging to fit into the frame.
• Brett strongly recommends using filters. The ND filters decrease the light entering the camera sensor during long exposures (recommend at least a three or 6-stop filter). Meanwhile, the polarizing filter helps reduce reflected light and improves colors.

Havasupai was worth the three-year postponement and truly a bucket list experience! If you’re headed to Havasupai, I hope you found this guide helpful. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments, and I’ll do my best to answer. xo